{"id":3218,"date":"2021-09-13T14:01:13","date_gmt":"2021-09-13T12:01:13","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/kommt-zeit-kommt-rad.ch\/?p=3218"},"modified":"2025-08-03T19:25:33","modified_gmt":"2025-08-03T17:25:33","slug":"georgia-over-hurdles-and-with-surprises-to-tusheti","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/kommt-zeit-kommt-rad.ch\/en\/georgia-over-hurdles-and-with-surprises-to-tusheti\/","title":{"rendered":"Georgia – Over hurdles and with surprises to Tusheti"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

We get serious and try to make our way towards Tusheti, one of the most remote places in Georgia.<\/p>\n\n

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We try because some higher power seems to want to prevent us from achieving this.First, we wait for a package from Amazon, which takes over two weeks and ultimately turns out to be an extremely complex matter. It’s very pleasant to see how online stores work in Switzerland. Ordered today, in the mailbox tomorrow – did you know that there are not even mailboxes in Georgia!?When we finally had the package in our hands after hours of paperwork, Beni got sick. So we were again prevented from continuing our journey for several days.<\/p>\n\n

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Power failure in Tbilisi for several hours<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
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View of Tbilisi at night<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/figure>\n\n

A few days later, Beni at half-mast, to our delight, we continued towards Sioni. Because Beni was not yet feeling quite fit, we looked for accommodation again a little outside the city. We quickly discovered that all the accommodations listed on Google Maps or Booking.com no longer existed (thanks Corona). The canvassing of the accommodations took us a lot of time and nerves! Finally, exhausted, we decided to head for the campsite we had originally planned to stay at.Suddenly, the cell phone rang. On the other end of the line was Rainer (our new Swiss colleague from Tbilisi). He had just passed us and was on his way to a friend’s house to pick up furniture for his pizzeria. He asked us if we wanted to come over for a drink. Sweaty and tired as we were, we gratefully accepted the offer in the 37\u00b0C heat.A few minutes later, we arrived at Rainer, Khatuna, and Zura’s place, where we were fed and even invited to stay the night. When Khatuna even offered us to use her family vacation home in Sioni, we were again swayed on the side of happiness.<\/p>\n\n

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Finally we can leave Tbilisi behind us<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
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We with Rainer, Khatuna and Zura<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
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Our night camp at the build up…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
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…with a view \ud83d\ude0e<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/figure>\n\n

Not quite asleep because of the noise of the nightly yelp of competition between dogs and jackals, we pedaled, Beni back in shape, through beautiful and shady forest to Sioni. After what felt like a final vertical climb, we reached the simple hut with its magnificent garden, where Dima and his father were already waiting for us to hand over the keys.The place was perfect for a day’s rest \u2013 or so we thought.Because one day turned into four. Nicole has also caught the flu. We described our misery to Dima, whereupon he offered us to use his hut for free as long as we want \ud83d\ude03. An incredibly nice family!<\/p>\n\n

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The father of Dima receives us warmly<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
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What you can find at the roadside \ud83d\udcb0!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
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Ride through the enchanting forest<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
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Fruits galore, we have filled our bellies<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
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Nicole lies flat for two days<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
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Our cottage with beautiful garden<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
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The reservoir of Sioni<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/figure>\n\n

Since Komoot has often led us astray, Beni used the time in Sioni to scout out our route further through the forest. First with the drone, then himself on site, where he also asked a local for his assessment. Everything pointed to a thoroughly doable but challenging path. This shortcut would save us a few kilometers.After four days, Nicole felt ready to take on the forest challenge. Unfortunately, our plan did not work out.<\/p>\n\n

Our suffering summarized: After 4 hours of pushing our bicycles up the overgrown forest road, we capitulated completely scratched, exhausted and close to tears (you can see a more detailed impression of our emotions in the video).Dima certainly had to grin inside at our renewed request for another night in the hut \ud83d\ude05.<\/p>\n\n

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Completely exhausted we turn around<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
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Should we have switched to the solid shoes earlier \ud83e\udd37\u2640\ufe0f?<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/figure>\n\n

The next day we rolled easily over the “Gombori Mountain Pass” on beautiful asphalt (this is the alternative route to the forest route). We are now happy to accept the detour.But the shock was not over yet. When we put up our beloved tent in the evening, a tent pole cracked and the connecting piece was torn (presumably this pole had already taken a hiccup before). Now it was time to quickly get our tent pole repair sleeve out and put it in place, because a storm with gusts of up to 90 km\/h came up all of a sudden. The storm lasted all night and we feared for our tent. In the morning we could once again sing a song of praise, because it has not taken any damage and has withstood the storm. Also the replacement tent pole was already shipped to us by Nordisk on warranty – super customer service!<\/p>\n\n

Quite tired we drove down into the valley and further towards Pshaveli. In a somewhat larger village shortly before we stocked up on food for at least four days for the adventure of Tusheti. We inquired with a local if there was a restaurant nearby. He then told us to follow him and he would navigate us to the restaurant. We ended up not in the restaurant, but with his family, who served us a feast including homemade wine. <\/p>\n\n

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Gombori Mountain Pass<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
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Broken tent pole<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
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Repair sleeve is pushed over fracture and fixed with adhesive tape<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
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Calm before the storm<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
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Alawerdi Monastery<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
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Our hosts -> Minus one pocket knife \ud83d\ude03\ud83d\ude09<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/figure>\n\n

Although we would have liked to sit longer with the nice family, we still wanted to slowly get on the road. We planned to make it part of the way up to the Abano Pass that day. From the village of Pshaveli begins the 2,570 meter climb to the Abano Pass at 2,826 meters above sea level. The road is considered one of the most dangerous roads in Europe. There are repeated rockfalls and landslides and it is quite narrow with steep slopes without guard rails. We plan to conquer this extremely steep gravel road in two days. Approximately in the middle there is the only possible place to spend the night right next to a hot spring where we can regenerate our muscles. It is in the middle of nowhere with a super view of the High Caucasus and we feel so pudelwohl that we splash and enjoy well and gladly two hours.<\/p>\n\n

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Our luxury suite at the hot springs incl. mouse rustling at night \ud83d\ude05 <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
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Locals treat themselves to a bucket bong (Did you know smoking marijuana is legal in Georgia?).<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
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Private pool (Torghva Bath) <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
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Rested and highly motivated, the next day we started the 2nd stage up to the pass. It was once again over 1,000 meters of altitude to push into the pedals. The higher we get, the more exhausting it becomes to breathe and especially for Nicole it feels like the climb will never end. But an unbelievable surprise and reward awaits her on the pass, which Beni set up while still in Sioni. For him it was clear that a woman who follows him over the most dangerous road in Europe is definitely the right one. So he got down on his knees in front of Nicole on the pass and asked her to marry him \u2764\ufe0f. She said YES! This is a moment we both will never forget. Everything just fit, was beautiful, surprising and getting engaged in such a magical place is very special.<\/p>\n\n

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Short lunch break with cold pasta<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
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Gravestones along the pass road commemorate the deceased<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
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Unfortunately, the visibility on the pass decreased to less than 20 meters…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
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…and it became very cold<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
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Together with Dennis, whom we met at the hot springs, we celebrate the success and engagement \ud83e\udd29\ud83d\udc8d<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
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Wild horses everywhere<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n
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Beautiful mood the next morning<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/figure>\n\n

In the next blog post we will take you down to the villages of Tusheti.<\/p>\n\n

For even more insight into our everyday cycling life, check out our latest video:<\/p>\n\n

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