{"id":6674,"date":"2026-04-28T18:20:54","date_gmt":"2026-04-28T16:20:54","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/kommt-zeit-kommt-rad.ch\/back-on-the-mainland-coasts-contrasts-and-little-adventures-from-cadiz-to-lisbon\/"},"modified":"2026-04-28T18:37:55","modified_gmt":"2026-04-28T16:37:55","slug":"back-on-the-mainland-coasts-contrasts-and-little-adventures-from-cadiz-to-lisbon","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/kommt-zeit-kommt-rad.ch\/en\/back-on-the-mainland-coasts-contrasts-and-little-adventures-from-cadiz-to-lisbon\/","title":{"rendered":"Back on the mainland \u2013 coasts, contrasts, and little adventures from C\u00e1diz to Lisbon"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Route to the blog:<\/p>\n\n

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We arrive in C\u00e1diz by ferry right on time at 8 a.m. Our rough plan is to first ride along the coast toward Portugal. However, we make our first stop in Chipiona, because just at that moment we receive a message from our Warmshower host saying that Beni\u2019s air mattress has been delivered to him by mail \ud83c\udf89\ud83d\ude03! What a stroke of luck. After the handoff, we hit the road again right away: We decide to pitch our tent a few kilometers further on. Since we really need a shower, we head to the \u201cCamping La Siesta de la Gaviota\u201d campground.Since we\u2019ve been wearing our helmets almost all day, the receptionist at the campground immediately asks us if we\u2019re traveling by bike. When we say yes, they tell us: \u201cSince our boss wants to support cyclists, your first night is free.\u201d A brilliant offer we don\u2019t want to miss. We set up our tent on the beautiful meadow. Then it\u2019s time to inflate the air mattress and sleep\u2014without having to patch things up. <\/p>\n\n

After two nights on the ferry, we really needed that good night\u2019s sleep, because the next adventure is already waiting: a roughly 30-kilometer stretch of beach in the Do\u00f1ana Nature Reserve between Sanl\u00facar and Matalasca\u00f1as, which is more or less passable. There are really only two options: either you take a long detour through Seville with heavy traffic, or you venture across the sand.A tiny ferry takes us across the Guadalquivir River into the nature reserve\u2014and drops us right back onto the sand. Here, you\u2019re only allowed to hike or bike. Plus, you\u2019re warned what feels like a hundred times that camping is prohibited and the route is challenging.The first 15 km feel really good. We make good progress and enjoy the complete seclusion\u2014just us and 30 km of sandy beach. About halfway through, however, the sand becomes softer in places, and the last few kilometers turn into a real challenge. At times, we have to push the bikes. Despite everything, it remains a unique experience. Only the occasional off-road tour buses passing by and the washed-up trash dampen the mood a bit. <\/p>\n\n

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In the background, you can see our ferry from the Canary Islands to C\u00e1diz<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Beni had to quickly repack his paraglider \ud83d\ude05<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Finally got my hands on the new sleeping pad \ud83c\udf89<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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It\u2019s already being inaugurated \ud83d\ude02<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Free Camping<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Ferry to the Do\u00f1ana Nature Reserve<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Everything for us…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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…almost<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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After 30 km, Matalasca\u00f1as\u2014and thus paved roads\u2014are finally in sight<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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The next stretch, past the port of Huelva, is, on the other hand, rather unattractive. Everywhere there are huge industrial complexes, black smoke, and poor bike paths, some of which simply end at a heavily trafficked bridge where cycling is prohibited \ud83e\udee3. Nevertheless, the city of Huelva also offers some beautiful views and buildings.Now it\u2019s not far to the Portuguese border. We\u2019re enjoying the weather to the fullest\u2014a great decision to leave the Canary Islands and return to the mainland. Just in time for our arrival, the weather has improved significantly. As you may have noticed, winter in southern Spain and Portugal was marked by numerous floods and extreme rainfall. Now the sun is smiling down on us every day in the weather forecast.Finally, we reach the border town of Ayamonte, where we take another small ferry to Portugal. Finally, a new country again. <\/p>\n\n

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In the parks (with playgrounds, etc.), they just spray the toxic stuff around.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Here is the warning: “ATTENTION!!TREATMENTWITH HERBICIDESWE APOLOGIZE FOR THE INCONVENIENCE”<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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It’s already finished on the left. Now everything is ready for the tourists during the season \ud83e\udd2f <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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EuroVelo 1<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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There are always a few beautiful stretches here and there, usually marked by a sign and funded by the EU<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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The port area of Huelva<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Huelva itself<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Everything is blooming beautifully<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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The strawberries are already ripe!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Ferry to Portugal<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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We quickly realize that our limited Spanish won\u2019t get us very far here. The words often look similar, but the language sounds completely different\u2014almost as if someone were speaking Spanish with a strong Russian accent \ud83d\ude05. At least the Portuguese speak English much better than the Spanish, so we manage just fine.Aside from the language, the driving behavior of motorists also changes noticeably\u2014unfortunately for the worse. In Spain, we\u2019re almost always passed at a safe distance, while in Portugal it feels like every other car is cutting us off. Since we\u2019re now mostly traveling along EuroVelo 1 through the Algarve, we initially think it\u2019ll be fine. But we were wrong: Aside from a few beautiful sections funded by the EU, EuroVelo 1 is often simply synonymous with heavily trafficked main roads\u2014a real outrage. It should actually be possible to revoke the EV1 status from such routes! Otherwise, the Algarve hasn\u2019t really wowed us so far. Sure, every now and then we come across those spectacular cliff landscapes you see in pictures. But most of the time we aren\u2019t driving directly along the coast at all, but through tourist towns that seem to alternate endlessly with massive golf courses. And there are a surprising number of them here: over 40 golf courses, with about 1.5 million rounds played here annually\u2014a massive economic factor that contributes around 4.2 billion euros to Portugal\u2019s GDP. <\/p>\n\n

We need a break from the coast and decide to head inland for a bit. There, purely by chance of course \ud83d\ude09, we also find a paragliding launch site.This short detour inland\u2014including two amazing paragliding flights with perfect landings\u2014has definitely reignited our motivation to give the coast another chance. <\/p>\n\n

Since the bike path once again runs mainly alongside golf courses and tourist resorts, we decide on the spot to \u201cpark\u201d our bikes for half a day at a restaurant and explore part of the \u201cSeven Hanging Valleys\u201d hike on foot. This is the only way to truly enjoy the most beautiful stretches of the Algarve coast.And indeed: Wow. The landscape is spectacular. At the same time, we\u2019re surprised by how many people are out and about here\u2014despite it being off-season and the water being freezing cold. But the detour is definitely worth it and significantly enhances our Algarve experience.In the evening, we set out again in search of a place to sleep. We discover a secluded road and follow it curiously all the way to the top\u2014and suddenly find ourselves on what appears to be an abandoned golf course. The grass looks patchy, with small bushes growing everywhere. Perfect.\u201cActually, we\u2019ve always wanted to camp on a golf course,\u201d we think to ourselves\u2014and pitch our tent right at the edge of the fairway.We sleep surprisingly soundly. Too soundly, as it turns out.Around 6:30 a.m., we\u2019re suddenly woken by a loud hissing sound. Half-asleep, we first think it\u2019s the wind. But after a few seconds, it clicks: the sprinkler system.And not just any wind\u2014but one that spins leisurely in circles\u2026 and completely drenches our tent and bikes at regular intervals \ud83d\ude02. You could practically count the seconds until the water jet hit us again with full force.Luckily, the involuntary tent shower only lasts a few minutes.No sooner had things quieted down than we heard the next sound: a loud humming. We looked out\u2014and saw a young man driving straight toward us on a state-of-the-art John Deere lawn tractor \ud83d\ude48. Oops.He stopped in front of our tent, turned off the engine\u2014and burst out laughing. Instantly likeable \ud83d\ude04. We apologize and explain that the place really didn\u2019t look like it was in operation.His reply: The golf course is brand new and won\u2019t open for about another month. That\u2019s why everything still looks a bit \u201cwild\u201d\u2014after all, the Algarve is still missing a few golf courses \ud83d\ude05. He stays calm and says we should take our time so the sun can dry the tent again. We chat for a while longer about our trip\u2014he\u2019s clearly interested\u2014and then say goodbye with a smile on our faces. <\/p>\n\n

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The path to the launch sites is usually a steep climb<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Loule Launch Site<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Quite symbolic: EuroVelo 1 on the left, the golf course on the right<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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EuroVelo: Let’s take a detour…<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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…then back on the main road.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Azulejos are traditional, ornate ceramic tiles, usually blue and white<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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“Seven Hanging Valleys” Hike<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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The sprinklers roaring on the golf course, even before sunrise \ud83d\ude02<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Our wet tent on the golf course and the friendly guy on the lawn mower<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n

After Lagos, things finally calm down a bit: less traffic, fewer tourists, and lush green landscapes instead. Our next destination is the paragliding launch site \u201cMiradouro da Cordoama.\u201d This place isn\u2019t just a highlight for pilots. Rarely have we just stood there for so long, simply marveling. The combination of steep cliffs, the rough Atlantic, and this vast expanse is simply breathtaking.Thanks to paragliding, we keep ending up in places like this\u2014and, as a bonus, we quickly strike up conversations with other pilots. So Beni takes off here for a breathtaking flight and glides along the coast. Meanwhile, Nicole enjoys chatting in Swiss German with a few other Swiss people at the launch site for the first time in a long while.The \u201cMiradouro da Cordoama\u201d also marks our westernmost point in Portugal. From here on, we head north again, back onto EuroVelo 1, with Lisbon as our next major destination.But it\u2019s still a good 250 km to Lisbon. Along the coast, we encounter a surprising number of hikers\u2014most of whom are likely on the famous \u201cFisherman\u2019s Trail.\u201d We don\u2019t see a single other cyclist, however.We often pitch our tents deep within wonderfully fragrant eucalyptus or pine forests, as hidden spots are otherwise rather scarce here. On the other hand, the EuroVelo route runs much more frequently right along the coast in this section, and we usually encounter hardly any traffic. We even venture into the ice-cold water twice \ud83d\ude03. <\/p>\n\n

Slowly, however, we realize: We need a few days\u2019 break again and a proper roof over our heads. So we try our luck on the Warmshowers platform and message about ten people in Lisbon. And sure enough: Yair and Aline are the only ones who get back to us and offer to let us stay with them for three nights\u2014in a prime location, no less.We\u2019re really happy about this, because so far we\u2019ve found hospitality in Spain and Portugal to be pretty much nonexistent. That\u2019s why we\u2019re not entirely surprised that the Warmshowers community isn\u2019t as active here. In other countries, we\u2019ve usually found a place after just two or three requests. <\/p>\n\n

For the next two days, the EuroVelo turns into a main road once again. Some of the passing maneuvers feel\u2026 let\u2019s just say: aggressive. So we resort to our tried-and-true tool again\u2014the infamous \u201cFuck-Off Stick\u201d: a long, pointed branch, attached crosswise to the luggage rack, which very subtly reminds drivers to keep their distance \ud83d\ude01. It works surprisingly well. <\/p>\n\n

The final stretch takes us across the Tagus River by ferry once again\u2014and suddenly we find ourselves right in the heart of Portugal\u2019s capital.Our WarmShowers hosts give us a warm welcome. We spend the next few days relaxing: we work on the blog, explore the city on our own, and generally take it easy, since our hosts have to work.As a small token of our appreciation, we cook them a delicious dinner\u2014for us, that\u2019s just part of giving something back. With some good Portuguese wine, the evening quickly turns into a lively gathering; we laugh a lot and have fascinating conversations. They\u2019ve only been living here for two years and are originally from Israel\u2014which makes their stories and perspectives all the more interesting. <\/p>\n\n

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\u201eMiradouro da Cordoama\u201c<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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There’s nothing quite like waking up to the sun!<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Remnants of all the winter storms<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Fuck-Off Stick installed \ud83d\ude0e<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Here, the bike path comes to an abrupt end once again<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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as well as here<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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As soon as I arrived in Lisbon, I spotted the famous Tram 28.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Dogs are like cats\u2014they always gravitate toward the people who aren’t really interested in them. Arturo is our Warmshowers hosts’ dog. <\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Sightseeing for us, too.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Find out in our next blog post whether EuroVelo 1 will take us away from the coast \ud83d\ude4b\u200d\u2640\ufe0f\ud83d\ude4b\u200d\u2642\ufe0f.<\/p>\n\n

For even more insight into our everyday cycling life, check out our latest video:<\/p>\n\n

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